pointe du Hoc

Most Surprising Destination: World War II Sites in Normandy

This year is the 70th anniversary of the D-Day landings on 6 June 1944 which started the invasion by the Allied forces of Nazi-occupied France during World War II.  The Battle of Normandy (code named Operation Overlord) started with an airborne assault of 1200+ planes and 160,000 troops deposited off the beaches of Normandy.  The Canadians landed at Juno Beach, the Americans at Utah and Omaha beaches and the British at Sword and Gold beaches.  On that first day alone, over 4000 Allied forces and 1000 Germans were killed, with many more injured.

beach

We recently visited the D-Day beaches and the sites of the Battle of Normandy in France as part of a trans-atlantic camporee organised by the Boy Scouts of America to kick off 70th anniversary commemorative events lasting through August 2014.  I found these historic World War II sites surprising for a few reasons:

The weather is dismal.

I don’t know why I thought all of France generally had pretty good weather.  The joke was on me.  Apparently, Normandy’s weather is famous for being unlike the rest of the country.  When the Normans took over England in 1066, they probably were thrilled to be somewhere it rained less. I have even more respect for the Allied forces who battled their way through awful weather and shelling and retook France little by little over a gruelling 3 month period in 1944.

rain in normandy

The beaches, cliffs and countryside are beautiful.

I confess I’ve never been to a battlefield.  I assumed, however, that a place where so many people had died would be sombre.  Nope.  No left-over psychic anguish or doom hangs around these places.  In fact, people have built beautiful modern beach houses overlooking the main landing grounds of Omaha beach.

Omaha beach
My son playing at Omaha beach.

This photo shows Pointe du Hoc where 200 US rangers scaled 98 foot cliffs to disable a German battery. After the dust cleared only 90 men were left alive. The lumpy landscape is the aftereffect of shelling by warships.

pointe du Hoc
The cliffs at Pointe du Hoc

The remnants of war can be surprisingly pretty.

The bunkers that the Nazis created as part of the Atlantic Wall defence against invasion were rounded shapes into the earth. Some of them now have fields of wildflowers growing over them. Children love running up and down these hills.

wildflower bunker
wildflowers cover a bunker

Some of the bunkers above ground had been decorated by the Germans to look like ruined farmhouses so that spy planes overhead could not tell the difference.

painted bunker
painted bunker

The deep holes in the earth created by mortar shells create an alien landscape made pretty with flowers and shrubs.  Children love to clamber in and around these fields such as this landscape in Pointe du Hoc.

shelled landscape
alien landscape after shelling

The war cemeteries are so different yet the same.

We visited both the British Commonwealth and the American war cemeteries.  I was surprised to learn that the British did not start repatriating bodies of fallen soldiers until the first Gulf War.  After World War II, American families were given a choice of repatriating the bodies of their loved ones or burial in the nearest European cemetery.  The American cemetery at Colleville-sur-mer overlooks Omaha beach and contains approximately 10,000 of the war dead.

There are some seriously wacky memorial statues as well as dodgy mannequins.

The Chinese gave Normandy this statue entitled World Peace.  They were grateful because they believe the Allied invasion hastened the downfall of the Japanese in the Eastern hemisphere of the war.  The statue looms over the fields of the village of Grandcamp-Maisy and locals call it “the tin lady with tits”.

world peace statue

This statue is at the American cemetery and is entitled the Spirit of American Youth Rising From The Waves.

rising youth

The steel memorial on Omaha Beach itself is called Les Braves.  Clearly, very modern.

les braves

As shown below, some of the mannequins in the museums and battle sites are better than others.

crazy man
Someone’s been in the bunker too long!

Our trip to the Normandy World War II battle sites was really interesting.  Mr. N and I really like history but our children (to our horror) are less enamoured.  This trip made them curious about  World War II in general.

I wrote this post as part of a blog hop whose theme this month is Surprising Destinations.  To read about more surprising destinations, do check out the other posts at Around The World in 80 Pairs of Shoes.

 

 

Published by

Shobha

I am an American expat based in London with my travel-loving family. I write at Just Go Places Blog about luxury, cultural and family travel.

8 thoughts on “Most Surprising Destination: World War II Sites in Normandy”

  1. My husband wants to be there for the 70th anniversary so bad but I am having a hard time finding lodging anywhere near the beaches! Were there any “live” reenactments while you visited? That’s really what he is most interested in. I love the photo of your son playing at Omaha Beach….he will love that one day!

    1. You could try the campgrounds? There seems to be lots of them and they have those prefab homes you can rent so you don’t actually have to camp. We went to a ‘live’ reenactment at Holdy Gun Batterie. You really get the whole feeling of being there, especially because it was held on farmland and the farm animals were completely freaking out over the gunfire. Our favourite site was Arromanches 360 which is a high def circular cinema with real war footage – very well done and very moving.

  2. What a great post! After working on my ANZAC post last week I really feel the need to visit the WW 2 Normandy sites. Omaha Beach looks so tranquil in your photo however so much happened on that beach. It really does bring it home how many young men gave up their lives to give us a better world to live when you visit a WW 2 cemetery. Thanks for linking up with us this month xx

    1. I couldn’t get over how tranquil Omaha beach was either! it’s a beautiful, wide sandy beach. Developers want to build on it because it is so nice but people are trying to petition to make it a UNESCO world heritage site precisely to honour the memory of those men who died on it.

  3. We were in Normandy too over Easter! I love the American Cemetary and Juno Beach but Mont St Michel, Camembert and the cidre route were my favourite parts! I did know about French weather and it’s not just Normandy. I was in Lille and Boulogne two years ago in June and the weather was awful! Freezing cold, duvet weathe that made a mockery of the bikini I’d packed.

  4. As somewhere I have always wanted to visit but never quite made it to, it was great to read about your experience in Normandy. I’d love to do a tour one day of the WWII sites in France, the history from that period, although tragic, is fascinating. The bravery of those in battle is just impossible to comprehend. It does seem a bit odd to be building beach houses etc. around those areas. But I guess life goes on!

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